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Microneedling: Is it Right for You?

Updated: Feb 27, 2023


What is Microneedling?

Microneedling uses sterilized micro needles to create a controlled wound in the skin. This allows for better product absorption, triggers the body’s response to produce more collagen/elastin, releases epidermal growth factors, and helps reset cellular function. But why exactly do we want more of these things?


Collagen is a protein produced in the body that is used to make connective tissue. It is what gives the skin its strength. Elastin is another protein that acts like a rubber band,it gives the skin its ability to stretch and recoil. As we age the amount of collagen and elastin decreases (as seen through fine lines and wrinkles). By increasing their production we can decrease the signs of aging and achieve younger, healthier, looking skin.

Estheticians needle at a max depth of 1mm in the state of North Carolina

Epidermal growth factor (EGF) is a protein involved in cellular communication and proliferation. They send messages to the cells to repair and rejuvenate. They also stimulate the fibroblasts which in turn triggers the production of more collagen and elastin.




The micro injury caused by microneedling has also been shown to help “reboot” cellular function which helps normalize the functions of melanocytes (pigmentation), keratinocytes (skin repair) , and sebocytes (oil production).



What Conditions Does Microneedling Help with?


Fine Lines/Wrinkles

Photo Courtesy of: Erika Hardy

As mentioned previously, microneedling helps improve cellular communication and stimulates fibroblasts to increase production of collagen and elastin, thus decreasing fine lines and wrinkles.








photo source: mdneedlepen.com

Hyperpigmentation


By restoring keratinocyte and fibroblast function, microneedling increases cellular communication with melanocytes (which create pigmentation). Furthermore it normalizes melanogenesis (the process by which pigment is produced).





Large Pores


Enlarged pores, and skin texture in general, can be improved through microneedling. Again this is done through the process of increased cellular communication and increased production of collagen and elastin.



Acne/surgical Scars


Microneedling is one of the few modalities that mechanically breaks down existing scarring. This allows for new wound healing to occur, this time in a healthier way than occurred with the original injury.


Acne?


For a long time acne was a contraindication to microneedling, the thought being that you didn’t want to open lesions and spread bacteria. However, in recent years new research is emerging that shows that microneedling may actually help types I & II acne by normalizing sebocyte (oil production) function. Ask your esthetician if microneedling might be a good option for you.


Who Shouldn’t Get Microneedling?


Although microneedling is a great modality that can help with many different skin concerns, it isn’t right for everyone. Below is a list of some of the conditions that are not a good fit for microneedling. This list is not all inclusive, if you have any questions about whether you would be a good candidate check with your medical doctor:


  1. Pregnant and lactating individuals

  2. Autoimmune compromised individuals (microneedling relies on the immune and wound healing response)

  3. Uncontrolled diabetes

  4. Pustular rosacea

  5. Skin cancer in the desired treatment area

  6. Skin infections

  7. Open lesions

  8. Solar keratosis

  9. Blood thinning medications or Blood clotting disorders

  10. Accutane (must be off for at least 6 months before treatment)

  11. Keloid Scarring

  12. Glycation (abnormal cross-linking of collagen in the skin, which appears as an "orange peel" texture)


Is there Downtime? What can I expect from a treatment?


Yes, unlike most of the skincare treatments at Jubilation there is downtime involved with microneedling and pre- and post- care must be adhered to.


Check out this file to review the pre-treatment instructions which goes over what products and activities to avoid before treatment:

MICRONEEDLING PRE-TREATMENT INSTRUCTIONS_
.pdf
Download PDF • 383KB


When you arrive for your first treatment you will begin by going over your skin history, skincare goals, and the post-treatment instructions. After reviewing everything you will give consent to your therapist to proceed.


Following this you will lay back on a heated and ultra-comfortable treatment table, have your face cleansed, and a numbing cream applied. After about 10-15 minutes the numbing cream is removed and your skin is prepped for treatment. The actual treatment takes around 15 minutes. Your esthetician will apply a professional serum with EGF designed specifically for microneedling. The needling is not comfortable, but the numbing cream should help with the discomfort.


At the end of the treatment your esthetician will apply any remaining serum, or a high molecular weight hyaluronic serum and you are done!


If you are receiving treatment during daylight hours we highly recommend you bring a hat or other sun protection for after treatment, as sunscreen cannot be applied for 24 hours. We also recommend you leave the serum on your face until it absorbs and avoid putting anything else on your skin for 24 hours.


Your skin will be red, feel tight, and be sensitive similar to a sunburn. It will dissipate over the hours following treatment, but can take a few days to fully resolve. It is also possible the old skin may flake off in the hours-days after treatment.


To see full post-treatment care instructions click here:

MICRONEEDLING POST-TREATMENT INSTRUCTIONS_
.pdf
Download PDF • 370KB


You may see change in your skin after one treatment, but it often takes between 3-6 to get the best results. The skin takes time to turn over and “reset” and it can take up to 3 months to see significant changes.


Microneedling is a fabulous treatment that can bring about great results. If you have any more questions about whether microneedling is right for you feel free to reach out to Jubilation at: jubilation.nc@gmail.com







Sources:

The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling by Dr. Lance Setterfield, M.D.



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